Hidden Paris: The Right Bank

Advertisement

The breathtaking Albert Kahn gardens. With its stunning colors, it might be the most beautiful garden in Paris.

This time, the guide presents less-known sites in Paris located on the right bank of the Seine. Since the river flows west, on the map it is “above” the river. The tour starts with sites in the city center and stretches several kilometers to the city limits, in the northwest to the Saint-Denis suburb, and southwest to Boulogne-Billancourt.

The Archaeological Crypt
The crypt near the cathedral displays excavation finds. While around fifteen million people visit the cathedral each year, only a tiny fraction see the crypt. Visitors enter through the parking entrance on the west side. Through glass, remnants of halls from the late Roman period can be seen, heated with ancient hypocausts that warmed floors and walls.

The site is 118 meters long, one of the largest of its kind worldwide. Visitors walk a path around the excavations. A lighting system illuminates different items from different periods, explained in detail, including in English. Interestingly, there is an 1800-year gap between the lowest and upper layers, not due to lack of construction, but because buildings above were repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt.

Jean Sans-Peur Tower
The tower, almost unnoticed because it is next to residential buildings, is significant due to its rare remnants. Originally built as a hotel of the Artois family, it later became the residence of Burgundy dukes. The tower offers a focused medieval-themed tour with five floors dedicated to the Middle Ages and daily life in the 15th century. A spiral staircase leads upward, decorated with motifs preserved for over six centuries. The top floor was once the bedroom of Jean the Fearless.

National Archives
The National Archives, located in a palace complex, preserves documents from the royal chanceries. Part of the complex serves as a museum with temporary exhibitions based on the archival treasures. The grounds include hidden gardens leading to the stunning facade of the palace, featuring designed halls and rooms with 18th-century tapestries and art inspired by Chinese motifs.

Cernuschi Museum
This small museum showcases a collection of Chinese art collected by a private collector, featuring around a thousand items, only a small portion displayed. Among the exhibits are six ceramic figures from Sichuan: two cooks, a farmer, a dancer, a musician, and a lady listening.

Romantic Life Museum
A short walk from a central square, this museum is dedicated to the former owner and a whole art movement. It features the restored studio-living space and a library accumulated over generations, serving also as a memorial for a famous local female writer.

Bouillon Julien
A two-minute walk from the passages, this beautiful Art Nouveau brasserie remains well-preserved, offering affordable full meals.

Brady Passage
A long covered passage linking streets, nicknamed “Little India,” offering an authentic Indian and South Asian culinary experience with restaurants and spice shops.

Albert Kahn Museum and Gardens
At the edge of the city, the gardens, divided by themes imagined by Kahn, include Japanese, French, and English designs, as well as “forests” reminiscent of his childhood landscapes. Renovations introduced unique architectural elements emphasizing the link between Kahn and Japan.

Basilica-Cathedral of Saint-Denis
One of the most stunning sites in France, notable for its unfinished exterior and extraordinary interior beauty. Many French kings from the 7th century onward are buried here. The visit is a journey through sculptural history, examining the posture, facial details, and attire of the effigies.

Advertisement
Advertisement